Savory and fruity combine in this dense red, whose wild rosemary, eucalyptus and woodsy notes meet cherry, plum and floral flavors. Firms up, so decant now or cellar a few more years. Best from 2024 through 2038.

The 2018 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva di Fizzano is one of the better wines in the range. Expressive floral and savory nuances lend brightness to this otherwise dense, virile Gran Selezione. There is quite a bit of tannin, but also just enough fruit to provide at least a measure of balance. Leather, tobacco, cedar and spice linger.